Care Requirements
Adult Size
2.0" (5cm)
Min Tank
5 gal
Temperature
68-79°F
pH Range
6.5-7.5
Lifespan
2-3 years
Min Group
3+ fish
Diet
Omnivore
Swim Level
Bottom
Bioload
1/10
Hardness
4-14 dGH
About Amano Shrimp
The Amano Shrimp is the undisputed champion of algae control in the aquarium hobby—particularly for the dreaded hair algae that few other creatures will touch. Named after the legendary aquascaper Takashi Amano who popularized their use, these large shrimp have become essential team members in planted aquariums worldwide.
What makes Amano Shrimp special is their combination of size, hardiness, and appetite. At up to 2 inches long, they're much larger and bolder than dwarf shrimp, able to coexist with most community fish. They work tirelessly, grazing on algae and biofilm throughout the day and night.
Unlike cherry shrimp and other dwarf species, Amano Shrimp cannot be bred in freshwater—their larvae require saltwater to develop. This means all aquarium Amanos are wild-caught, and you won't face population explosions. For pure algae control without breeding concerns, they're the top choice.
Natural Habitat & Origin
Amano Shrimp are native to Japan, Taiwan, and Korea, where they inhabit rivers that flow to the sea. Adults live upstream in freshwater, but their life cycle is catadromous—larvae must drift downstream to brackish or marine water to develop, then migrate back upstream as juveniles.
This unique reproductive requirement explains why they can't breed in freshwater aquariums. In the wild, females release larvae that drift to estuaries or the ocean, go through multiple planktonic stages in saltwater, then return upstream as tiny shrimp. Replicating this in captivity is extremely challenging.
Native Region
Japan, Taiwan, and Korea
Habitat Type
Freshwater rivers flowing to the sea
Wild Water Conditions
Variable—cool to warm (64-82°F), moderate hardness, adults in freshwater, larvae require brackish/marine water
Appearance & Varieties
Amano Shrimp are relatively large for aquarium shrimp, reaching about 2 inches (5 cm) at full size. Their bodies are translucent gray-green with a distinctive pattern of broken lines and dots running along their sides.
Their transparency allows you to see their internal organs, including food moving through their digestive system—an unexpectedly fascinating detail. Males are typically smaller and slimmer with dots arranged in even rows. Females are larger, rounder, and have elongated dashes rather than dots, with a wider tail for carrying eggs.
Unlike the brilliant colors of dwarf shrimp, Amano Shrimp are subtly colored to blend with their environment. Their beauty comes from their behavior and effectiveness rather than vivid coloration.
Tank Setup & Requirements
Quick Requirements Summary
Tank Size
Minimum Tank Size
5 gallons
Recommended Tank Size
10 gallons
Amano Shrimp are highly adaptable and can thrive in a wide variety of aquarium conditions. They're excellent additions to planted tanks, community tanks, and dedicated shrimp tanks.
Water Parameters
Very adaptable—temperature 64-82°F (18-28°C), pH 6.5-8.0, and moderate to hard water (6-20 dGH). They're extremely sensitive to ammonia and nitrite (must be zero) and prefer nitrates under 20 ppm. They tolerate a wide range of conditions but are sensitive to sudden changes.
Substrate
Any substrate works—they graze on all surfaces rather than being substrate-dependent. They'll pick through gravel, sand, and bare-bottom tanks equally effectively.
Plants & Decorations
Live plants are beneficial as they provide grazing surfaces and hiding spots for molting. Any plants work, but those with surface area for algae growth are especially useful. Provide hiding spots where shrimp can retreat during vulnerable post-molt periods.
Filtration & Water Flow
Good filtration is appreciated. Cover intakes with sponge to prevent any shrimplets from being sucked in (though Amano larvae don't survive in freshwater anyway).
Lighting
Any lighting works—moderate light encourages algae growth for them to graze on.
Diet & Feeding Guide
Diet Type
omnivore
Feeding Frequency
Daily (if algae is limited)
Portion Size
Supplement based on available algae
Amano Shrimp are primarily herbivorous detritivores, feeding on algae, biofilm, decaying plant matter, and dead organisms. They're incredibly efficient algae eaters—the best in the hobby for hair algae specifically.
Best Foods for Amano Shrimp
- Tank algae and biofilm — Their primary food source in established tanks
- Algae wafers — Supplement when natural algae is insufficient
- Blanched zucchini — Excellent vegetable supplement, readily accepted
- Blanched spinach — Nutritious green supplement
- Shrimp pellets — Good supplemental food for shrimp
- Indian almond leaves — Provides biofilm and tannins they appreciate
Foods to Avoid
- Copper-containing foods/medications — Copper is lethal to shrimp
- Exclusively protein-based foods — They're primarily herbivores
They're incredibly efficient algae eaters. In established tanks with algae, supplementation may be minimal. If algae runs out, they'll need regular feeding. Avoid overfeeding—if too well-fed on prepared foods, they may reduce their algae-eating efforts.
Behavior & Temperament
Amano Shrimp are bold, active, and constantly foraging. Unlike shy dwarf shrimp, Amanos often march right up to claim food, sometimes even stealing it from fish or each other in entertaining displays of shrimp determination.
They graze constantly on all surfaces—glass, plants, decorations, and substrate. They're more active at night and often seen swimming and foraging after lights out. In groups, they compete for food in a manner that's more amusing than aggressive.
One important behavioral note: if Amanos are trying to climb out of the tank, it's a warning sign about water quality. Healthy Amanos in good conditions stay submerged.
Tank Mates: Compatibility Guide
Compatible Tank Mates
Peaceful, won't bother large Amanos
Peaceful community fish
Peaceful bottom dwellers
Fellow algae eaters, no competition issues
Peaceful, shrimp-safe
Peaceful with other shrimp
Peaceful nano fish
Tank Mates to Avoid
Large cichlids
Will hunt and eat shrimp
Pufferfish
Shrimp are natural prey
Large catfish
May eat shrimp
Crayfish
Will attack and eat shrimp
Assassin snails
May attack molting shrimp
Common Pairing Questions
Do Amano Shrimp eat all types of algae?
They eat most soft algae including hair algae, which few other creatures touch. They won't eat black beard algae, green spot algae, or blue-green algae (cyanobacteria). They're the best option for hair algae specifically.
Will fish eat my Amano Shrimp?
Adult Amanos are relatively large (2 inches) and safe with most community fish. Only large predatory fish like cichlids or large catfish pose a threat. They're much safer than small dwarf shrimp.
Can Amano Shrimp live with Cherry Shrimp?
Yes—they're completely peaceful with other shrimp. They may compete for food, but they don't harm each other. They can coexist happily in the same tank.
Breeding Amano Shrimp in home aquariums is extremely challenging—virtually impossible for most hobbyists. Their larvae require saltwater to develop.
Females readily carry eggs in freshwater (1000-3000 greenish eggs carried under the tail for 4-6 weeks). However, when larvae hatch, they require brackish to full marine water to survive. The larvae go through multiple planktonic stages, feeding on marine phytoplankton and zooplankton, before metamorphosing into tiny shrimp that can return to freshwater.
Successfully raising Amano larvae requires a separate marine tank, precise salinity transitions, live planktonic foods, and weeks of careful management. All aquarium Amano Shrimp are wild-caught because commercial and home breeding is so difficult.
Health Issues & Disease Prevention
Amano Shrimp are generally hardy once properly acclimated. Their main vulnerabilities are copper exposure (lethal), sudden parameter changes, and failed molts.
Common Diseases
| Disease | Symptoms | Treatment |
|---|---|---|
| Bacterial infections | Pink/white discoloration, lethargy | Improve water quality, salt dips for external infections |
| Vorticella | White fuzzy growths on body | Salt dips, improve water quality |
| Muscular necrosis | White/opaque muscle tissue | Often fatal—prevent with stable parameters |
| Failed molts | Death during or after molting, stuck in old shell | Ensure proper GH, iodine supplementation |
Signs of a Healthy Amano Shrimp
- Active grazing behavior
- Clear body with visible organs
- Regular molting (every 3-4 weeks)
- Good appetite
- Quick movement when startled
- Full antennae
Prevention Tips
- Drip acclimate for 1-2 hours minimum—they're sensitive to parameter changes
- Never use copper-based medications in their tank
- Provide adequate minerals (GH 6+) for healthy molting
- Consider iodine supplementation for molting success
- Provide hiding spots for vulnerable post-molt periods
- If shrimp are climbing out, check water parameters immediately
Frequently Asked Questions
They eat most soft algae including hair algae, which few other creatures touch. They won't eat black beard algae, green spot algae, or blue-green algae (cyanobacteria). They're the best option for hair algae specifically.
Amano larvae require saltwater to develop—they're catadromous like salmon in reverse. The larvae go through complex marine stages that are nearly impossible to replicate at home. All aquarium Amanos are wild-caught.
A common guideline is 1 Amano per 2-3 gallons for effective algae control, so 5-10 for a 20 gallon tank. In heavily planted or algae-prone tanks, more may be needed.
Adult Amanos are relatively large (2 inches) and safe with most community fish. Only large predatory fish like cichlids or large catfish pose a threat. They're much safer than small dwarf shrimp.
This is a warning sign about water quality. Check ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate immediately. Healthy Amanos in good conditions stay submerged. Escape attempts indicate something is wrong.
Tips for Keeping Amano Shrimp
Pro Tips
- ✓They're the undisputed champions for hair algae—nothing else comes close
- ✓Drip acclimate for 1-2 hours minimum—they're sensitive to parameter changes
- ✓Never use copper medications in their tank—it's lethal to shrimp
- ✓Watching them steal food from fish is endlessly entertaining
- ✓They're transparent—you can watch food moving through their digestive system
- ✓Provide iodine supplementation for healthy molting
- ✓If they're trying to climb out, check your water parameters immediately
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- ✗Not drip acclimating—sudden parameter changes kill them
- ✗Using copper-based medications
- ✗Expecting them to breed in freshwater
- ✗Overstocking relative to available algae—then not supplementing food
- ✗Not providing hiding spots for molting
- ✗Keeping with large predatory fish
- ✗Ignoring escape attempts—it's a warning sign about water quality
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